For the Love of Sauvignon Blanc

When I meet new people and they find out about my career as a wine buyer, inevitably, they ask “What’s your type of favorite wine?”. My response is

“I don’t have one. I don’t judge wine by the color, white, red or rose. It is the character in the bottle that matters to me”.

There is one varietal, however, that I have an affinity for. We have a relationship, this grape and I. We’ve know each other for many, many years. It is my go to wine, always has been. But it wasn’t until my first trip to Napa Valley I really fell in love with sauvignon blanc.

I had the privilege of a private tour at Groth Vineyards. Groth is located just down the street from Silver Oak Napa, outside of Oakville. It is a marvelous facility. We walked through vineyards, barrel rooms, and laboratories. As we neared the end of the tour, we entered the tank room where they were storing the not yet released new vintage of Sauvignon Blanc. It was all still in tank - stored at 52degrees Fahrenheit. My gracious host took my glass, held it under the spicket of one of the tanks and filled my glass.

The aromas were exquisite. Flavors of melon and citrus burst from the glass. There was an underlying creaminess (from sur lie aging) that completed the experience. It was crisp; it was refreshing; it was full of flavor; it was beautiful. Everything combined at that moment and I fell in love with sauvignon blanc.

I began to pay closer attention to this new-found love. I discovered that sauvignon blanc has a very unique quality - it picks up terroir and winemaker style better than any other variety. It also grows all over the world, so there are many styles to delight the palate and keep it fresh.

It seems as though, at least in America, sauvignon blanc has always played second fiddle to chardonnay. People paid high prices for a glorious Burgundy or creamy, oaky Napa Chardonnay. Sauvignon blanc was never as pricey. Few people paid any attention to them.

In the early 1970s Robert Mondavi took sauvignon blanc and placed it in oak barrels before bottling. He called it Fume Blanc in an attempt to glamourize the varietal. He used the term Fume because Sauvignon blanc is the white variety grown in Fume, France in the Loire Valley. This style of white wine worked at the time. In fact, Robert Mondavi Fume Blanc became a staple wine in the industry.

Over the years, winemakers have changed the way they look at sauvignon blanc. No longer chardonnay’s second cousin, sauvignon blanc has so much to offer the discerning palate. It is a great wine for summer sipping. Since the grape picks up the terroir of its upbringing, there are many styles to choose from.

Consumers disccovered sauvignon blanc when New Zealand brought to our shores their crisp and refreshing version. Wines like Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc took this country by storm. There was no oak on this wine, just racy acidity and loads of grapefruit on the tongue. These wines WOWed the American palate.

The popularity of SB has grown, so much so that the famed Rombauer Vineyards released is own sauvignon blanc in 2014. This says a great deal about the popularity of this varietal. The only other white wine this winery makes is chardonnay, and Rombauer Chardonnay has a huge following. So too, I am sure, will Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc.

In Napa, the climate is warm and the soils volcanic. This climate tempers the acidity and allows the melon flavors to develop more completely. Winemakers often age the juice for a few months on the lees (the dead yeast from fermentation) This technique adds additional body and creaminess to the wine. Sauvignon blanc from Napa tends to be less acidic with a little more roundness. Flavors often trend toward honey dew melon or even a little pineapple mixed in with Meyer lemon.

The 2016 Rombauer SB is aged in stainless steel except for 10% which is aged in neutral oak. This imparts a weightiness and texture to the wine. The flavors radiating from this wine are Meyer lemon, white flesh stone fruit and pear. This one is well worth seeking out.

Another California region that produces exquisite sauvignon blanc with another amazing flavor profile is the Santa Ynez Valley. The region tends to be a little cooler than Napa Valley so there is generally more acidity in the wines. My favorite telltale sign of a sauvignon blanc from Santa Ynez is salt. Yes, I said salt.

In this region fog rolls in off the Pacific Ocean and covers the vines every day until late morning or early afternoon. There is an element of salt in that fog. The salt is deposited on the grapes. When tasting a Santa Ynez Valley sauvignon blanc, there will always be salt present. This saltiness enhances the citrus flavors in the same way salt enhances the lime with your tequila shot. These wines are lush and vibrant. Two of my favorite producers are Firestone Vineyards and Gainey Vineyards. Both wineries are great to visit should you find yourself in the area.

This is only the beginning of what I could say about sauvignon blanc. I haven’t even mentioned that is the white grape of Bordeaux and they blend a little semillion in. Nor, have I mentioned Chile, Australia or the Czech Republic (try a lovely one at Little Gretel in Boerne).

If I had to choose, sauvignon blanc would be my favorite. But then there are so many styles of sauvignon blanc to choose from, I don’t think I could choose a favorite. I guess I’ll have to keep searching………

Until next time, CHEERS!

Lorelei Helmke