Unexpected Wines from Down Under

Lorelei J. Helmke
Jun 22, 2016
4 min read

It’s summer along I-10 and, well frankly, it’s hot!!! I find myself looking forward to the cooler months. That is what prompted my subject idea for this issue - Australia. The vines are dormant there, as it is winter.

Don’t worry, I am not going to regale you with unjustified words about Australia’s “critter” wines (Yellowtail, Little Penguin, you know the ones). Instead in this issue, I am going to shed some light on the vast array of fabulous wines Australia produces. Australia is not just about big, bold, Shiraz, even though they do lead the world in this category. Australia has regions that produce beautiful white wines, and other stellar reds. I have compiled a short list of places and varietals to experiment with.

New South Wales

Located about 100 miles north of Sydney is the birthplace of Australian wines. In the foothills of the Brokenback Range, the volcanic soils of Hunter Valley (a subregion of New South Wales) produce a most attractive Shiraz. But here in Hunter, Shiraz is overshadowed by other varietals today.

Hunter is a cooler climate that produces Burgundian styled Chardonnay and especially known for Semillon (a grape most appreciated by wine insiders). For those not familiar with Semillon, it is typically used as a blending grape with Sauvignon Blanc.

Australia bottles wonderfully expressive Semillon as a single variety, well worth trying. The classic Hunter Semillon delivers racy acidity, lemony aromas along with melon flavors. These wines are know to age well. As they age the acidity drops and more honeydew flavors arise, so it’s perfectly fine, and rather adventurous, to pick one up that is a few years old.

Pair Semillon with shellfish, light salads, smoked salmon and semi-hard cheeses.

Suggested Producers:

Tyrells Wines

Pokolbin Estate

Brokenwood

Yarra Valley

Further south, closer to Melbourne, Yarra Valley was Australia’s first growing district. The first vines were planted there in 1838. The temperatures in Yarra Valley trend cooler than Bordeaux and warmer than Burgundy. The soils vary somewhat, but on the cooler, southern side they are vivid red volcanic earth that produce extraordinary Pinot Noir.

Open a bottle of Yarra Valley Pinot Noir and you will find lush notes of cherries, red raspberries, mocha intertwined with earthy mushroom layers. Most are medium bodied with ripe, yet austere fruit. Inside the aromas lay mineral qualities such as slate and graphite to balance out the wines. Served at about 55 degrees, Yarra Valley Pinot Noir is perfect for a San Antonio summer evening.

It should not surprise the fizz fanatics to find sparkling wines, similar to Champagne, from Yarra Valley. Moët and Chandon has a winery there. They make a lovely sparkling wine quite similar to the ones they produce in Burgundy. Many other wineries produce Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs.

Aussie Pinot Noir pairs very well with garlic-fennel roasted pork, grilled chicken and vegetables and vegetarian enchiladas.

Suggested Producers:

Coldstream Hills

De Bortoli

Giant Steps

South Australia - Coonawarra

It’s the soils that set Coonawarra apart from other wine regions. Terra rossa soils are found in only a very few places in the world. It is where limestone bedrock is covered with red fertile soils. Ideally a pure water reservoir lies beneath. In these soils Cabernet Sauvignon of particularly amazing characteristics can be produces.

The typical Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon will have a firm structure with tobacco and cedar shavings, perhaps a eucalyptus character. Coonawarra Cabernet is different from other Cabernets. I suggest trying one side by side with either another South Australian Cabernet Sauvignon or a Napa Valley Cabernet. The difference will be clear.

Coonawarra Cabernet is a smart choice with barbecue ribs and brisket. It also makes a great addition to the traditional picnic basket with cold fried chicken and potato salad.

Suggested Producers include:

Cover Driver by Jim Barry

Wynn’s Coonawarra

Penney Estate

South Australia: Barossa Valley

Barossa Valley is to Australia what Napa Valley is to California. It is the most famous region and produces the most sought after Australian wines. This is where Penfold’s produces its perfect scoring Shiraz known as Grange.

What makes Barossa Valley so amazing is many of the vineyards are over 100 years old. They are dry farmed and have never experienced a phylloxera outbreak. The vines here have adapted seamlessly to the climate. Barossa Shiraz is always, luscious, rich, dark, brooding, spicy, chocolaty, and full of deep black fruit flavors. What’s not to love?!

What intrigues me about Barossa Valley Shiraz though is that, even with all the rich fruit character, the wines still have finesse. Like balancing an elephant on a teeter-totter, Barossa winemakers seem to be able to take berries bursting with sugars and flavors and make a wine that is both full flavored and subtle.

Barossa Valley Shiraz compliments roasted lamb beautifully. But, if you want to go all out Aussie, order a tenderloin of kangaroo. Yes, kangaroo. Choose a salty marinade and grill it out with portobello mushrooms. YUM!!!

Suggested Producers - aside from Penfolds:

Glaetzer (Amon-Ra, Bishop)

Yalumba

Elderton

Torbreck

Finally:

I would be remiss if I did not mention Sparkling Shiraz in this article. Now I know that red sparkling wine is generally frowned upon here. But I believe it is my job to enlighten my readers and expand their wine horizons. That means stepping out of the box of norms we so love keep ourselves in.

They are not sweet, but they are delicious, and delightful to drink by the pool. With aromas of blackberries, cherries, chocolate, and strawberries all bubbling and cold in your glass, why not? If you happen to find one, buy it. Put another shrimp on the barbie and pass a glass my way.

Cheers Mate!

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