Whites of Rhône

Spring has sprung and between the storms, we have been enjoying some incredibly gorgeous evenings along I-10 West. This is the time when we wine lovers begin to turn our attentions away from the heavy red varieties and begin to enjoy the more easy going white wines. This usually means Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blancs. But there are so many more white wines to explore. In this issue I will introduce three white wines of Rhône: Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne. I have even provided phonetic spelling so you can be more comfortable with the grapes.

Some Background

The ability of the Rhône to produce magical wines was confirmed when in 1309 Pope Clement V moved the papal court to Avignon. At that point about three-quarters of the wines consumed by the papal court were from Rhone. To further establish the region, John XXII built a castle just to the north of Avignon and Chateauneuf-Du-Pape was born. The castle unfortunately was destroyed during World War II, but the vines still reign.

There are so many stories about how the Rhône came to be the significant wine producing region it is I could go one certainly for the entire article. I won’t. You, my readers, need to know about the wines you can drink today.

Even though Syrah is the most promenade grape produced in Rhône, the white wines mentioned earlier are spectacular bottled alone or when blended together. They provide a wonderful respite from the creamy chardonnay and acidic sauvignon blancs we are so accustom to. Rhone whites have both body and lively spirit.

The good news is that Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne grow not just in Rhône. They have taken root all around the wine producing world. Domestically speaking, California, Washington and our own state of Texas produce these luscious wines. Foodies will agree that they all pair exceptionally well with a variety of dishes. Let’s dig a little deeper in what you can expect when trying one of these alternatives to Chardonnay.

Viognier (vee-oh-NYAY)

Viognier is a seductive wine with heady aromas of peach, apricots and honey suckle. It is a delicate white wine but generally maintains a formidable body. Intensity is the key word for Viognier, the fruits are intense and the aromas divine.

It is generally a wine with lower acidities and should be drank young as a result. In the glass, you will see a deeper color that with other white wines. You might also notice Viognier tends to have a bit more viscosity (that’s the “legs” when you swirl it around the glass) as Viognier may have a touch of residual sugar or a little higher alcohol content that other white wines.

Viognier begs to be drank with food. Pair it with spicy Thai dishes or any shell fish. It is also a great partner with creamy sauces.

The best of the best is from Condrieu and Hermitage in Northern Rhone. Producers to look for include E. Guigal and Perrin. But as I mentioned earlier, Viognier is produced in the States and down under with superb quality and at more modest prices. Look for Viognier from California’s White Knight Viognier, Tangent, Fess Parker, Zaca Mesa. From Australia you can find Yalumba and Oxford Landing in a very modest price range. I can’t leave out our very own Texas grown Viognier. From Texas you will find McPherson and Becker among others producing very approachable, enjoyable Viognier. Texas is a most agreeable place for Viognier to grow.

Roussanne (ROO-sa-on)

The berries are stunning in color. They are gold with a copper hue, which is no doubt where the name derives. Such powerful colors mirror the potent aromas and flavors produced during vinification. Roussanne will deliver abundant perfume aromas with hints of peach, pears, spice and roasted nuts. The wines are rich and exotic with a full-bodied texture.

Drink this wine either young, within 3-5 years of harvest, or after 15-20 years of cellaring. Roussanne in the middle can take on the same qualities of humans when they are in-between their delightful childhood and elegant maturity. (Those of you have raised teenagers will know what I mean.)

With food, Roussanne is an excellent choice for a variety of seafood dishes, hard cheeses, as well as pâte, roasted chicken, pork and veal. The most famed producer of 100% Roussanne is Beaucastel’s Chateneuf-Du_Pape Vielles Vignes. Locally, Bending Branch’s Comfortage is 100% Roussanne, sourced from the Hall Ranch Vineyard in Paso Robles. Tables Creek and Truchard also produce a single varietal bottling of Roussanne.

Marsanne (MAR-sa-on)

Traditionally a blending partner for the two varieties just discussed, Marsanne too offers heady aromas and full body. It is relatively new to single varietal scene we know so well in America. Currently, Chateau du Trignon has a 100% Marsanne Cote du Rhone that is gaining some recognition. Flavors are described as white pepper, and spring blossoms with fruit, spice and fruit all at once. That’s good Marsanne in a nut shell.

Blending Together

These three white wines are wonderful on their own, but when a winemaker combines them the angels sing! Complexities arise and new combinations are found in the glass. After all, these are traditional grapes and traditionally the French have always blended their grapes together.

There are many white Rhône blends available. They are fabulous alternatives to Chardonnay for your spring and summer enjoyment. A few of my favorites include:

• d’Arenberg The Hermit Crab Viognier Marsanne - McLaren Vale Australia ($19)

• E. Guigal Cotes du Rhône Blanc - ($15)

• Torbreck Woodcutter’s Roussanne, Viognier, Marsanne ($20)

• Bonnie Doon - Le Cigar Blanc - Arroyo Secco, California ($28)

Searching for these wines may require a little bit of tenacity on your part. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc sections of your local wine store are huge and that is generally where wine consumers end up.

These bottles, however, are well worth the trouble to find. Anyway you choose to partake of Rhône Whites, individually or blended together, you will not be disappointed.

CHEERS!

Lorelei